Process of making collars



7 (No Model) I. V V

R. BUTTBRWORTH. PROCESS 0F MAKING GOLLARS.

Patented i. 27, 1886.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ROBERT BUTTERWVQRTH, OF SOMERVILLE, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND THE REVERSIBLE COLLAR COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

PROCESS OF MAKING COLLARS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 340,695, dated April 27, 1886.

Application filed January 18, 1986.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ROBERT BUTTERWORTH, of Somerville, in the county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Collars, of which the following is a description snffi ciently full, clear, and exact to enable any person skilled in the art or science to which said invention appertains to make and use the same, reference being bad to the accompany ing drawings, forming part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 is a vertical transverse section of my improved dies, represented as in position for use; Fig. 2, a top plan view of thebeddie; Fig. 3, a bottom plan view of the upper die; Fig. 4:, a front elevation of the dies with a collar in position to be molded; Fig. 5, a rear elevation of the dies; Fig. 6, a top plan view of an ordinary turn-down collar; Fig. 7, a vertical transverse section of the same, taken on line as w in Fig. 6; Fig. 8, a top plan View of my improvedturn-down collar; Fig. 9, a vertical transverse section of the same, taken on line yy in Fig. 8; and Fig. 10, a plan view of a blank or collar before it is folded.

Likeletters of reference indicate corresponding partsin the different figures of the drawlugs.

As I propose to make the collar shown in Fig. 8 and the dies used in carrying out my improved process the subject-matter of other applications for Letters Patent, I do nothere' in claim, broadly, either said collar or dies.

My present invention, or that forming the subject-matter of this application, relates more especially to that class of collars which are composed of paper or cloth-faced paper; and it consists in the novel process of molding or 40 forming the collar, as hereinafter more fully set forth and claimed, the object being to produce a more desirable article of this character than is now in ordinary use.

In order that my improved process may be more readily understood by all conversant with such matters, I will now describe a set of dies which may be used in carrying it out or putting it into practice, and also the collar molded or formed thereby.

A represents the bottom or The In the drawings,

bed die, and Bthe upper or movable die.

Serial No. 199.959. (No model.)

bed-die is provided with a horizontally-pro jet-ting flangeC, at its basc,which is cut away,

as shown atf, at or near the front of the die. An annular groove, m, is formed in the top of the flange O, at its inner edge, said groove be ing curved in cross-section,aud corresponding in contour with the form it is desired to give the collar at its upper or folded edge. The upper die, B, is provided with a downwardly- 6o projecting annular-flange or cylinder, D,which is cut away at the front, as shown at z, and at the rear, as shown at 0', said flange being secured to the body ofthe die by the screws t. The lower edge of the flange 1). is rounded to correspond with the contour of the groove m, but

is made narrower or thinner in cross-section than the width of said groove, thereby preventing the flange from binding or stickingin the groove when the body of the collar at its folding-line is forced down into the same in molding it, as hereinafter described. The flange D, at the rear of the die 13, is also reduced in thickness on either side of the space '2', as best seen at o c in Fig. 3, the objectbeing to produce a thin place, I), in the curved upper or folded edge of the collar and at its rear,

as shown in Fig. 8, so that the collar may be bent around or fitted to the neck of the wearer with greater ease than would be possibleif the upper edge were folded throughout its length on a large curve, as shown in Fig. 9, and without breaking or crimping at the back.

The object in cutting out the flange D at or near the rear of the die B, as shown at r, is to prevent the band of the collar from being wrinkled or corrugated at that point by the molding process as the upper die descends.

The object in cutting out the flange G at or near the front of the die A, as shown at f, is 0 to enable the ends it of the band of the collar to be held by the fingers of the workman during the process of molding, the flange D at or near the front of the die 13 being cut, as shown at z, for alike purpose, or to prevent said lastnamed flange from interfering with the hands of the workman.

In using the dies shown to carry out my improved process the collar-blank or unfolded collar, as shown in Fig. 10, is creased in the ordinary manner on the folding-line d, and turned down or folded in the usual manner on said line by the hands of the workman. The collar thus folded is then reversed or turned upside down and drawn tightly around the body or hub a of the bed-dieA, its folded edge on the line (I being disposed in or immediately adjacent to the groove m in the flange O, and the ends is of its band overlapped, as shown in Fig. 4, in which position it is firmly held by the fingers of the workman pressing said ends against the hub. The die B is then caused to descend, the flange D passing downwardly between the flap and band of the collar and forcing a portion of its body at the folding-line into the groove m, thereby permanently stretching and molding it at the upper or folded edge, as shown in Figs; 8 and 9, in a manner which will be readily obvious without a more explicit description.

When turn-down paper or cloth-faced paper collars are folded and rolled in the usual manner, the upper or folded edge, 7;, is left comparatively sharp or thin, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, thereby injuring the appearance of the collar and affording but little space for the scarf or necktie.

All turn-down linen collars of the best patterns and quality, when properly laundered, necessarily have the appearance of being folded at the upper edge on a large curve, and as it is very desirable, in order to meet the requirements of the trade, to have paper and cloth-faced paper collars made in imitation of the same, my improved turn-down paper or cloth-faced paper collar is molded or stretched on the folding-line (Z, as described, thereby permanently folding it on a large curve, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, improving its appear ance and affording space for the necktie. The flange G is preferably cast or formed integral with the body or hub a of the die A; but it may be made separately or formed in any suitable bed, if desired. The hub a serves to assist in keeping the collarin proper position preparatory to and while being molded, as described, and it may be constructed of any suitable materials and supported in any suitable manner, whether integral with the flange O or not, it being essential, of course, that it should rise above the plane of the groove m and be arranged concentrically therewith. The flange D may also be made integral with the die B, if preferred, and not reduced at v, as described. The space or opening 1* may also be omitted, although I deem it preferable to use said space and also to reduce the rear portion of the flange D at v, as shown and described.

I do not confine myself to having the die B work vertically, as the dies may be so arranged that it may work horizontally or in some other direction. The die A may also be arranged to move instead of the die B, if preferred.

By forcing a portion of the body of the collar at the folding-line into the groove m, as described, the folded edge is not only molded or formed on alarge curve in cross-section, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, but is also molded in such a manner by being crowded or forced down into the groove as to slightly stretch the stock of the flap. longitudinally and slightly condense the stock of the band longitudinally at and near the folding-line between the flap and band, thereby giving the collar a good spring and keeping it in better shape than when not so molded.

It will be understood that in use the die A is to be properly secured to the bed of a suitable press, and the die B to the cross-head or plunger of the same, or vice versa, it being deemed unnecessary to show such press or the entire appliances for securing the dies in position therein.

Having thus explained my invention, What I claim is- The improved process of molding or forming a turn-down paper or cloth-faced paper collar herein described, the same consisting, essentially, in folding the blank on its fold ing line or crease, wrapping the collar thus folded tightly around a hub or body adapted to keep it distended in circular form, with its folded edge inserted in or disposed imme diately adjacent to an annular groove formed in a suitable bed, said groove being curved 9 in cross-section and adapted to receive said folded edge, and then forcing the body of the collar or a portion thereofat its folded edge into said groove by means of an annular flange or flanged die on a cylinder adapted to pass between the flap and band of the collar while wrapped around the hub, whereby the folded edge will be permanently molded or formed on a large curve, and the stock so stretched and molded at and near the folding-line that the collar will have the requisite spring, substantially as described.

L. J. \VHITE, O. A. SHlUV. 

